quiet brand building in a loud world: how COS is standing out

a case for subtlety over shouty

I spend a lot of time talking about strategies that capitalise on trends - how brands can tap into what's current, whether through community, social media, partnerships, messaging, positioning, or how to ride the wave of the cultural zeitgeist to stand out.

This week, I found myself inspired by COS's recent entrance into the Lyst Top 10 ( the industry's quarterly report that ranks fashion's hot brands/products), landing between Prada and Bottega Veneta. This marks the first time a mass fashion label has broken into luxury's exclusive circle and the top 10. With a 44% increase in demand, it’s clear that consumers are craving affordable luxury, and COS is delivering.

As much as there’s buzz around what this means for the future of luxury fashion, I’ve been thinking about why COS is succeeding where others haven’t.

Let’s get into it.

Trivia: Does anyone know what COS stands for? Me neither - read to the end for the answer!

It starts with the product...

COS’s success isn’t just about creating chic, minimalist clothing, it’s about designing pieces that stand the test of time. While this isn’t a groundbreaking USP (a few brands fall into this category), what sets COS apart is how they’ve stayed focused on what they do best. While many brands have rushed to chase fleeting TikTok trends, pivoted their entire strategy to target Gen-Z (side note: targeting Gen-Z is NOT a brand strategy - more on that in a future piece), COS has stuck to its guns: offering high-quality, timeless designs, peppered with hero pieces that tap into the cultural conversation.

The key here is that COS doesn’t completely ignore what’s of the moment. Take the Barrel Leg Jeans, a hero product for Q1, according to the Lyst report, and highly praised as the new jean cut from autumn 2024 and into this year. COS’s version blends a subtle, timeless cut with premium fabric, making it a wardrobe staple—a piece that’s both versatile and long-lasting.

“COS Bay jeans are a more subtle barrel-leg shape, ideal for those easing into the new cut. As ever, the quality of the denim was exquisite, with a lightweight feel, and sizing was spot on.” – Who What Wear

COS wasn’t the first to offer this shape - Alaïa led the charge, with other brands like Citizens of Humanity following suit, emphasising the curved silhouette with their Horseshoe style. While I desperately wanted these to look chic on me, I couldn’t quite pull them off. Meanwhile, Ganni stayed true to their bold aesthetic, introducing a barrel shape in leopard print. The COS version - sold out - proving that subtlety works. And with an affordable price point for denim that doesn’t necessarily need to be a forever piece, it makes sense. Plus, with over 1,200 try-on videos on TikTok, the product speaks for itself, and the buzz follows naturally. Get yours here or try the COS Arch Jeans, predicted to be the next buzzy piece, here.

This mix of classic styles with just the right amount of fashion-forward edge is the sweet spot. It’s refreshing that instead of following every whim, COS doubles down on quality, crafting clothing that can be worn season after season without ever feeling dated. Elle brand review here

High street, not fast fashion

When we talk about COS, the key distinction is its clever positioning in high street fashion, separate from the fast-fashion crowd. COS borrows from luxury fashion to avoid the cheap, disposable feel often associated with mass retail. Their focus is on pieces that last, complemented by sustainable initiatives like pre-loved services, prioritising natural materials, and collaborating with non-profit organisations to improve gender equality within the supply chain. Their runway shows, designed for full recyclability, further elevate the brand’s commitment to sustainability and there’s a whole page on their efforts to make their stores more sustainable here

Despite these efforts, COS does remain a fast-fashion brand, offering on-trend styles and regular new arrivals. But through thoughtful campaigns and messaging, they’ve cleverly positioned themselves away from the typical fast-fashion model, setting themselves apart from brands like Zara, H&M (its sister brand), and Weekday.

COS understands that today’s consumers are maturing. The cultural shift towards capsule wardrobes, supported by newsletters by

Reva Luft

and Anna

The Wardrobe Edit

, and stylists like

Allison Bornstein

with her three-word method, reflects this desire for pieces that endure. COS taps into the timeless, understated appeal of luxury minimalism - a look loved by brands like Khaite and The Row.

At its core, COS's clothing is elevated, its fabrics are premium, and its designs are timeless. It’s not about being flashy or chasing trends - it’s about offering lasting quality in a market that often sacrifices it for speed. This is why COS doesn’t just blend in - it stands out.

Quiet collabs: subtle, not shouty

While many brands rely on flashy collaborations to stay relevant - eg Skims/H&M - COS takes a quieter approach. Their partnerships seamlessly align with the brand’s minimalist ethos, reinforcing quality, sustainability, and artistry without chasing headlines. COS creates collaborations that resonate with a discerning audience and tastemakers, much like Loewe does in the luxury space. Both brands often use the term “craft” to describe their design process, emphasising a commitment to craftsmanship and quality that transcends trends.

COS’s partnerships are (from my pov) intentionally selective, often launched to support a new market or timed with key moments in art and design. Recently, they launched a rare product collab with Linda Farrow eyewear, blending COS’s affordability with Linda Farrow’s luxury credentials. This subtle approach may not generate immediate viral buzz (though I LOVE the pieces), but it speaks to COS's long-term vision, prioritising consistency over quick hype.

“Understated luxury is at the heart of the inspiration for this collection, a design ethos that is in synergy with both LINDA FARROW and COS.”

Similarly, their 2015 collaboration with homeware brand Hay reflected shared values of design and craftsmanship, offering a curated collection of homeware at accessible prices. Karin Gustafsson, COS’s creative director, explained: “We don’t work with trend forecasters; we always do our own research and go on our own intuition of what we’ve been inspired by” (to GQ).

COS also goes beyond product collaborations. Their partnerships with LGBTQIA+ collectives like Sink The Pink and initiatives like Park Nights at Serpentine show their commitment to inclusivity and creativity. These aren’t just transactional; they’re about creating experiences that reflect the brand’s ethos of supporting art and community.

Collaborations with Snarkitecture in Seoul and Philip K. Smith III in Milan take this a step further, demonstrating COS's ability to create meaningful, culturally relevant moments. As Karin Gustafsson says, “I believe there are intrinsic links between fashion and art...surprising and irregular compositions.” These partnerships, infused with subtle creativity, show how COS connects with culture and design without shouting about it.

Where else has COS invested their efforts?

• Retail: With over 250 stores across 47 countries, COS has a significant global presence, including key cities like London, New York, Paris, Seoul, and Sydney. They leverage the launch of new stores to amplify campaign efforts, ensuring their minimalist ethos is reflected in every location.

• Runway Shows: Since 2020, COS has hosted runway shows that blend high fashion with creative vision, earning rave reviews and significant influencer engagement. Sharon Stone, Pamela Anderson, Gemma Chan, and influencers like Lucy Williams have graced the front rows. Taking inspiration from luxury fashion houses, the SS25 show was set in an iconic Dionyssomarble quarry in Athens, showcasing sculptural designs against dramatic white marble. What sets COS apart? Almost every piece from the collection is available for purchase immediately after the show, translating directly into sales and maintaining relevance in the fashion conversation. Read more and loved this Vogue piece here

The COS SS25 Runway images from Vogue

• Campaign Creative: Consistently elegant and cohesive, COS’s campaign creative is a testament to their ability to innovate while staying true to their minimalist roots. Karin Gustafsson, who has led the brand since its inception in 2006, attributes their success to "being on top of inspiration" while maintaining COS’s identity.

• Tastemakers + Influencers: COS takes a more localised approach to influencer partnerships, fostering long-term relationships with tastemakers like Jonathan Hayden in Paris. They focus less on community-building or advocacy-driven campaigns, preferring to stay true to their design-driven narrative.

• PR: the brand is regularly featured in roundups through press affiliates, but they don’t dominate headlines. While this subtle approach aligns with their brand ethos, it might be something to consider shifting if they want to ramp up visibility and make a bigger splash in the media landscape.

• COS Broadcast Channel: Launched in February 2025, COS’s Instagram Broadcast Channel has already gained traction, with 13.2k members. A highlight of this new platform was the sharing of voice notes from Adrien Brody, one of their celebrity ambassadors, offering a more personal, behind-the-scenes connection with their audience.

• Pop-Up Events: The COS truck, distributing coffee and flowers, offers a tactile in-person experience that aligns with the brand's minimalist ethos. While not groundbreaking, these pop-up initiatives allow customers to connect with the brand in a subtle, elevated way.

Image by Jonathan Hayden from Instagram

• Celebrity Partnerships: COS works with carefully selected celebrity ambassadors, integrating them into their brand narrative naturally and authentically . While they avoid overexposing celebs, they’ve worked with cool relevant figures like Jack O'Connell, Pamela Anderson & Sharon Stone, enhancing visibility without leaning into influencer culture.

• OOH Advertising: COS has also invested in OOH advertising, with notable wild postings in US cities like LA and NY, as well as in London. This subtle yet effective visibility reinforces their minimalist, understated brand message.

Where COS isn’t investing

While COS’s rise is impressive, it’s also worth noting what the brand hasn’t done (to my knowledge) and how this has contributed to its success. I love thinking about this because there’s often an assumption that a brand must do everything - chase every trend, jump on every new platform, support every niche micro group. But sometimes, saying no to things is just as powerful. It’s a great exercise for any brand: what aren’t we doing? That clarity can often be just as strategic as what you choose to pursue.

1. Chase Gen-Z: Unlike many brands, COS hasn’t made Gen-Z its primary focus. Instead, they've stayed true to their vision, appealing to a broader, more mature consumer base. As a result, Gen-Z has been drawn to their offering naturally and for all the reasons discussed above.

2. Micro-Community Building: While COS has a loyal customer base, they haven’t heavily invested in community-building strategies. They don’t (appear to) rely on user-generated content or hyper-engaged online communities to drive awareness. Instead, they focus on tastemakers, without pushing constant engagement or affiliate links/advocacy.

3. Content Creation: Unlike other brands inundating followers with videos and tutorials, COS keeps its social channels simple, focusing more on showcasing their products and design ethos. They leverage campaign assets over UGC, staying true to their minimalist aesthetic with a few stylised social first posts in the mix like this one

4. Chasing Trends: One of COS’s biggest strengths is its refusal to chase fleeting trends. They’ve remained steadfast in their commitment to minimalism and timeless design, avoiding the burnout that often comes with pivoting to follow specific demographics or short-lived styles.

5. Influencer-Driven Campaigns: COS doesn’t rely on mega-influencers or large-scale paid social campaigns. They prefer subtle collaborations that align with their understated brand, allowing them to maintain an image of premium accessibility. Unlike brands like Sézane, which frequently appear in influencer unboxing videos, COS stays quieter in that space, focusing on consistency over hype.

Trivia Answer: COS is an abbreviation of “Collection of Style” did everyone already know this? I had no idea/had never thought about it.

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This week I’ve been:

Listening to: the new Lorde song + Haim’s Relationships - eagerly awaiting both albums dropping this summer (or winter in my case). It's going to be a good season for music. Also, I’ve been obsessed with the Diary of a CEO episode featuring Emma Grede (though not a podcast I usually listen to)

Reading: Notes to John by Joan Didion, where she shares journal entries from her psychiatrist sessions with her husband, John. Heartbreaking and oddly invasive.

Shopping: Donni Summer Drop Part I - I’ve been obsessing over the now sold out lace shorts, which have my heart racing. I’m on the waitlist they sold out within hours!